Picture this – New Year’s Eve in Kyiv’s St Sophia’s Cathedral square.

The golden bulbous structure is gloriously lit, and a guitarist is playing the melody to George Michael’s Last Christmas as families gather in the square.

At 9pm the festive lights are switched off and all that’s left is a glowing northern star in the bell tower. Two hours before curfew, the crowd starts to thin out. The blue lights of police vans bounce off the dimmed Christmas tree and families make their way home for the night.

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New Years is the most celebrated holiday in Ukraine and though the day was marked by a mass Russian missile strike that caused 10 blasts across the capital, people are gathering to enjoy it in the ways they can. House parties go on until the curfew lifts at 6am and then many young people head to nightclubs and party throughout the day.

The insistence to celebrate is a form of resistance in itself.

“The main idea is that what Russia is doing is to terrorise and put fear in us, and they aren’t getting this. We will just live our lives, and it might be inconvenient, but it doesn’t matter,” says Zhenya Melnyk at a house party near St Sophia’s square.

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Shortly after midnight, another two blasts reverberate through the capital. The streets are empty but the festivities go on as people yell out to each other from their building blocks and sing the national anthem in defiance.

Life has drastically changed for many young Ukrainians. Thousands of civilians have left behind their careers and daily comforts to enlist in the armed forces.

Eugene worked in media and advertising before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in February. He is now a lieutenant in the Ukrainian Armed Forces and plans to leave the military and return to his old life when the war ends and – he strongly highlights – Crimea is returned.

“For me, it was just unimaginable to stand aside because I went to the army not to “protect the country”, government or even, language. I joined the forces to protect my family, my way of living, and the freedom we have here in Ukraine,” he said.

Hours later on New Year’s Day, families weaved through destroyed Russian tanks and captured artillery in the shadow of St Michael’s Golden-domed monastery.

Many New Year’s hangovers were refreshed by the crisp air and symbolic wreckage but for most, the fatigue is emotional.

“I wanted to believe that we would have a calm night at least. But no, our neighbours decided that we do not deserve it so they sent us some New Year presents and it was disgusting,” says Kyiv resident Olha Kuchek as she carries her three-year-old son.

The fighting spirit of Ukrainians captured the world’s imagination in 2022 but the enduring sentiment going into the new year is the deep desire to not have to fight at all.

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